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[KOO-lum-ee-yay] Coulommiers is as much an ancient and true Brie as Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun, but it does not have A.O.C. status.  Though the differences may seem trivial to us, the reason for this is that there is no standard recipe or uniform size agreed upon by its various producers, thereby disqualifying it from name-controlled protection.  Like all the artisanal cheeses of the Brie family, the best Coulommiers are made from pure, high-quality cow’s milk of local herds.  Encased in a thin rind of bloomy white mold, the creamy paste has the color of freshly churned butter and tastes milky with a slight nuttiness.  Coulommiers pairs well with White Burgundy (Chardonnay), Sauvignon Blanc (California or Languedoc), or even Merlot.